Christoff.ai

The Devonshire

restaurants•
London
London

The Devonshire

The Devonshire, 17 Denman St, London W1D 7HW, United Kingdom

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Christoff

Christoff's Take

Insider review

In a city where every other gastropub claims to be 'chef-driven,' The Devonshire on Denman Street actually delivers on that promise. This isn't just another Soho watering hole with pretensions – it's a genuine revival story where serious culinary talent has breathed new life into a traditional pub format, creating something that's both Instagram-worthy and authentically satisfying.

The Devonshire: Soho's Wood-Fired Revival That Actually Lives Up to the Hype

When renowned chefs resurrect a pub, magic happens

My Honest Review

Atmosphere & Ambiance

The Devonshire strikes that elusive balance between cozy local and destination dining spot. The space buzzes with a lively, convivial energy that attracts both dedicated diners and casual drinkers – a mix that keeps the atmosphere dynamic without feeling chaotic. With an energy level that sits comfortably at 6.5 out of 10, it's animated enough for a proper social gathering but refined enough for date night conversation. The sophistication level registers at 7.5, suggesting a polished environment that doesn't take itself too seriously. The wood-fired Ember Grill becomes something of a theatrical centerpiece, adding both visual drama and that distinctive smoky aroma that immediately signals serious cooking is happening. It's the kind of place that photographs beautifully – hence the Instagram-worthy tag – but the substance backs up the style. The venue manages to feel both trendy and timeless, a difficult balance that speaks to thoughtful design and execution.

Food & Drink

The Ember Grill Restaurant isn't playing around with its British cuisine focus. The wood-fired cooking method elevates traditional dishes through precision and simplicity – a philosophy that's evident in signature offerings like the suet pudding with ox cheek and wood-fired Ibérico pork chops. The lamb cutlets and steaks benefit from that distinctive ember cooking, which imparts flavors you simply can't achieve through conventional methods. The menu demonstrates a strong emphasis on meat dishes, all executed with the kind of technical precision you'd expect from renowned chefs. Beyond the mains, they offer bar snacks and desserts that round out the experience. The Good Food Guide's recognition as 'one of the most enjoyable places to eat in the capital' isn't hyperbole – it's earned through consistent execution and genuine culinary skill. The cooking style respects British traditions while elevating them through superior technique and quality ingredients.

Service & Experience

The service at The Devonshire earns consistent praise for being friendly, relaxed, and professional – a combination that's harder to achieve than it sounds. Staff demonstrate genuine expertise and hospitality, suggesting proper training and investment in the team. The relaxed approach means you won't feel rushed or overly managed, while the professionalism ensures competent execution of orders and recommendations. This service style aligns perfectly with the venue's overall vibe – sophisticated enough for special occasions but approachable enough for regular visits. The staff's knowledge about the wood-fired cooking process and menu offerings adds value to the dining experience, particularly for first-time visitors navigating the offerings.

Value for Money

With a price level of 3 out of 4, The Devonshire sits firmly in premium territory – this is date-night pricing rather than casual pub fare. However, the value-for-quality equation appears to balance out when you consider the caliber of cooking, the renowned chef involvement, and The Good Food Guide recognition. You're paying for genuine culinary skill, premium ingredients, and the unique wood-fired cooking method that sets dishes apart from standard gastropub offerings. The Soho location and sophisticated atmosphere also factor into the pricing structure. While it's certainly an investment, the consistent praise and recognition suggest you're getting what you pay for in terms of food quality and overall experience.

Insider Tips

Best Time to Visit

Based on the opening hours (Monday-Friday and Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday 11am-10pm), timing your visit strategically is crucial. The booking system is notoriously challenging – reservations only open Thursdays at 10:30am for three weeks ahead, making spontaneous dining nearly impossible.

What to Focus On

Focus on the wood-fired specialties that showcase the Ember Grill's capabilities. The signature suet pudding with ox cheek and wood-fired Ibérico pork chops are standout dishes that demonstrate the kitchen's technical skill. The lamb cutlets and steaks also benefit significantly from the ember cooking method.

Christoff's Insider Tips

Set a Thursday 10:30am alarm for booking drops – treat it like securing concert tickets for epic British cuisine. The booking system is genuinely competitive.The mix of drinkers and diners means you can potentially grab bar snacks and drinks even when restaurant bookings are full.Follow their Instagram @devonshiresoho for any last-minute availability or special offerings.

The Final Verdict

The Devonshire represents everything a modern British pub should be – rooted in tradition but elevated through genuine culinary expertise. The wood-fired Ember Grill isn't just a gimmick; it's a serious cooking method that produces genuinely superior results. While the booking system borders on ridiculous and the pricing reflects its Soho sophistication, the quality justifies both the effort and expense. The Good Food Guide recognition feels earned rather than purchased, and the consistent praise for both food and service suggests this isn't just riding on initial hype. It's a local favorite that manages to maintain standards despite obvious popularity – no small feat in London's competitive dining scene.

Christoff's Rating:
8.2/10

Perfect For:

Food enthusiasts seeking elevated British cuisineDate night diners willing to invest in qualitySocial groups wanting Instagram-worthy dining with substance

Quick Details

1

The Devonshire

🍺 Chef driven pub
⭐️ Wood fired cooking
⭐️ Convivial atmosphere
⭐️ British precision

The wood-fired Ember Grill creates magic with British ingredients - suet pudding with ox cheek and Ibérico pork chops that showcase what happens when renowned chefs take over a traditional pub. The Good Food Guide called it 'one of the most enjoyable places to eat in the capital,' and the precision cooking justifies every bit of that praise. The convivial atmosphere balances serious food with relaxed pub energy, where drinkers and diners coexist naturally. Service combines expertise with genuine hospitality, making even the most complex dishes feel approachable. This is chef-driven dining without the pretension, pub culture elevated without losing its soul.

What's Great

✓ Wood-fired Ember Grill excellence

✓ Good Food Guide recognition

✓ Perfect balance of pub and restaurant

Keep in Mind

× Bookings only available Thursdays at 10:30am for three weeks ahead making spontaneous dining nearly impossible

Christoff

Christoff's Tip:

Set your Thursday 10:30am alarm for booking drops - it's like securing concert tickets but for epic British grub

Vibe check scores

Trendiness
Sophistication
Noise Level
Uniqueness

Venue details

🕐"Mon-Thu & Fri: 11am-11pm, Sat: 11am-11pm, Sun: 11am-10pm"
📍The Devonshire, 17 Denman St, London W1D 7HW, United Kingdom
💷££££
🌐Website

Featured In My Guides

The Devonshire has been featured in 1 of my curated guides. Here's where you can find more context and discover similar spots.

Soho Restaurant Guide 2025: Where Locals Actually Eat reference image

Soho Restaurant Guide 2025: Where Locals Actually Eat

restaurants in london•
Aug 21, 2025
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